This article appeared in the July 1955 issue of "The Long Island Forum." Captain Griffing was a commercial fisherman and Banker of Southold town on long Island's North Fork. When he retired and moved to Florida he continued to send his reminiscences to "The Long Island Forum" for many years. The last of them, "Blinkers By The Million," was published in the Jan.1959 issue.
Fisherman from East Marion set their
traps all along the shores of Gardiner's Island, and some of them built
cottages on the bluffs or in the valleys. These cottages were neat and
well kept, but because they were small and cheaply constructed they were
called shanties or fish houses.
My first visit to the Island was in the year
1890. I was a guest of Henry Rackett, who was about three years my senior.
He was the son of Captain Clinton Rackett, who lived three houses east
of our little farm and homestead. My visit of two weeks was a most wonderfull
experience. The Island was so different from my birthplace in East Marion,
which was quite flat and all under cultivation. I felt as if I were a long
way from home; though it was less than twenty miles.
Here there were high hills and rough shore
lines, with vast reaches of pastureland, a square mile of dense woods just
north of the manor house. Wild deer, pheasants, quail; black ducks in the
ponds were very plentiful. Also wild turkeys at one time.
Several large salt water ponds, viz: Ooose
Pond, Home Pond, Tobaccolot Pond and Bostwick Pond were stocked with hard
clams, scallops, eels and fish.
Fish hawks in great numbers built their nests on the tops of
large rocks on the shores, and sometimes beyond the shore line, also in
the tree tops. Hundreds of sheep fed out on the hills and grass covered
fields. Blackberries, equal to cultivated ones, were in abundance.
A large herd of cows, also a stock farm. Mr.
Gaddiner raised some famous horses which he sold throughout the eastern
section of New York State. Clark T. Larisphear, of East Marion, a retired
Fulton Fish Market man, bought one, which was a beautiflil horse and very
fast; also Anton Furst and Sons, a fine pair of farm horses, to be used
on their most productive farm.
Jim (a negro) was the foreman of the stock
farm and very competent; he was held in great esteem by John Lyon Gardiner
and family for his ability and faithfulness.
Upon request Jim was always glad to show his best horses to visitors,
especially the fishermen who lived on the Islind in their fish houses;
which I will later describe.
Mr. Gardiner was very glad to have the fishermen located in their
various spots along the coastline. He said their presence was the equivalent
of a watchman, for they very often kept the poachers from landing on the
Island. These thieves would land in the dark of night, steal sheep, kill
black ducks and dig clams. In fact, anything they could get away with before
the break of day. In later years when the Island was under lease
to F. Augustus Schermerhorn for hunting purposes things were
different.
Mr. Schermerhorn employed a Hiram Miller and
his wife to watch over and feed the game with which he had stocked the
Island. A high observatory tower was built, and by the use of an excellent
spy glass either Mr. Miller or his wife would spot a strange boat in the
offing very quickly.
On one occasion I saw Mr. Miller come galloping
over the hills to Eagle Field Point, on his fine horse, with his trusty
rifle over his shoulder. He arrived about the same time a poacher started
to land. The intruder changed his mind very quickly.
Except around the Manor House, which was of
course the center of all activities, all was peace and quietness, like
a Sunday stillness. A very primitive place, just where you could expect
to find little Jody Baxter fishing and dreaming, the little hero of Marjorie
Kinnan Rawling's book, "The Yearling."
There were five locations where the Captain
and some of his crew lived ashore in their cottages, as described in the
begining of this article. The fishing season began the latter part of March
and all the traps were out by Thanksgiving Day.
Capt. Clinton Rackett's cottage was located
on the northerly side of the Island, called Bostwick Bay. It was an ideal
spot, on a high hill overlooking the harbor, with a salt water pond at
the foot of this hill, also a nice cool spring of water. Caatain Rackett
kept his small boats intheoudet ofthe pond. Thissaved pulling them upon
the beach every night.
The cooking was done in a separate building.
The cottage was large enough to house the crew; also rooms for the family,
who always spent the summer with the Captain.
I mention this one first, as it had the best
location of all the five.
Captain Joseph A. Clark had his cottage on
Cherry Hill Point, a good location, but very sunny and hot because there
were no shade trees.
However, a fine southwest breeze every afternoon and evening
made it such a delightfiil place that Deacon Clark's mother, Mrs. Elizabeth
Davis, was a frequent visitor. I have no doubt that many of her sea shell
ornaments are still in existence, for they were beautitully made.
She was so happy in doing this work, although
well advanced in years. Aunt Elizabeth was a wonderfiil woman, held in
high esteem by all who knew her.
Captain Charles H. Gardiner's house was on the west side of the
Island, called Cherry Harbor. His cottage was on level ground about four
feet above sea level, no hills or trees for miles around. Captain Gardiner
rarely ever stayed on the Island over the Sabbath, as he was an ordained
minister and preached regularly for several years in Hashamomuck, besides
filling in as a supply preacher in the eastern Long Island churches. His
nephew, Counsellor Leroy G. Edwards, now resides in East Williston.
I paid Captain Gardiner and his crew a visit
one evening. I was much amused in watching Steve Macomber patch his trousers
with a large molasses jug to hold them in place while he performed this
bit of tailoring.
Captain Daniel and Frank J. Tuthill had a
rugged location on the east side of the Island, just west of Eagle Field
Point. Off this point was the best place of all for fishing traps.
They had two fish houses; the new one was
built in 1896 by Aaron Youngs and Bradley Horton. Captain Frank represented
the fishermen many times in the Legislature at Albany.
The writer of this article was Captain of the Oratongo for this
company; also later mate of the Wm. T. Seward.
The fifth cottage was that of Captain Andrus Rackett, with his
sons Edwin and Winfield, located in a ravine of a very high and rocky bluff.
The most rugged and lonesome spot of all, situated on the stormy northeast
side of the Island. Very often their smack was forced to run for a harbor
in the middle of the night.
The Reverend Fenimore Cooper and his wife spent several summer
vacations as guests of Captain Edwin and his wife Anne Rackett.
There were other fishermen who set traps off
the shores of Gardiner's Island. Captain Everett and Ernest Vail, Captain
Dave and William Patterson, George Udell, Alva Brooks, Eugene Griffing
and Everett Bennett. These captains with their crews lived on their smacks.
On one occasion our smack lay at anchor under
the lee of Gardiner's Island off Goose Pond, waiting for the northwest
gale to subside.
Our cook, Wayland Caulns, getting rather tired
of salt beef, suggested we have some mutton for a change.
As Wayland was the oldest member of our crew
we listened to his plan; for we had no knowledge of how mutton could be
lawftilly procured in this lonely place.
After a good breakfast of flapjacks and molasses, two of us agreed
to follow the leader.
We walked about five miles over the hill to
the Manor Hossse. Wayland made a request to Mr. Gardiner, through a servant,
for the purchase of a sheep. Mr. Gardiner's answer was "Take a three-year-old"
naming the price (which I cannot recall).
On our way back we found a large flock of sheep. Our cook called
to them. When they pricked up their ears we could clearly see the number
of holes in each ear. Three holes indicated the three-year-old we had paid
for.
This one we caught and took it aboard the smack. Weyland proved
to be not only an excellent cook but a good butcher as well. Oh boy! we
lived high for a while.
As previously stated, Gardiner's Island was primitive in those
days, and a delightfiil place it was.